Phong Nha Ké national park

Vietnamese farmer with bull

As we enter highway 20, part of the famous Ho Chi Minh trail, in Phong Nha Ké national park thousands of colorful butterflies swarm around us.  Butterflies in Vietnam are often seen as spirits of the deceased. And indeed many Vietnamese have died maintaining the trail and defending this area against the U.S. armed forces in the Vietnamese war. Peaceful as the national park appears, only one generation ago the